Baluchistan: fear and kindness in the desert

It was a boiling hot morning already when we left Islamabad. The road following the Great Trunk road was clear thanks to it being early but the same craziness awaited us outside Lahore. It seemed to take us an inordinate amount of time to pass the traffic and constant people of Lahore but once we passed,…

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Words from home mean a lot

As part of our IndieGogo campaign (now closed) we invited people to take part in our journey by either prepaying for a limited edition print from the journey or to be spent postcards from all around the world. The postcards were a surprising hit along with having a piece of unique artwork from the exhibition.…

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Salaam Pakistan!

The Wagah border crossing from India to Pakistan is famous. Firstly, it’s the only crossing foreigners can use and secondly it’s the scene to a traditional ceremony every closing time sourced from tensions between the countries (the “dance” is almost one-upmanship in action). It also has strict opening and closing times as it is such…

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Welcome back to India!

The peace and quiet of Lumbini quickly evaporated as we appeared at the border to India. Firstly, we’d meandered our way through to a smaller border, following a curious raised road through paddies and marshland. We shared the road with scooters and bicycles and spied a funeral pyre by the river and men crouched on…

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Goodbye, Nepal, and the birthplace of Buddha

We stayed in Kathmandu long enough to visit Bodnath, collect passports complete with Pakistani visas and heal stubborn Khmubu coughs. Bodnath was amazing but as it turns out though, Nepal is the worst place to heal coughs- Kathmandu (Dustmandu) is at constant battle with dusty haze. People sell a range of attractive dust masks by…

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Simon, the solo trekker

Simon set off on his own, accompanied by a clingy and worried Alex for the first 6km until it got too hilly and it was a fine excuse to turn back and let him continue on his own. He also borrowed a down jacket from our new Australian friend who assured him he wouldn’t make…

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Altitude sickness and subzero

Dingboche was the point where we no longer saw greenery. Instead, the village was defined with low rocky walls and small fields where grass struggled to grow. Yaks wandered aimlessly from one patch of earth to another to eke out a meal whilst the snowy mountains bore down on us from every angle. The village clung to…

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The Heart of the Himalayas

Namche Bazaar marks the last town before the serious trekking begins, whether you’re going to Everest Base Camp or doing the 3 Passes. It is the last town which stays functional for 365 days a year, the villages north of here shut down out of season. From Namche, you have an excellent view of the…

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Hello, Himalayas!

Our flight left 30 minutes earlier than scheduled, which is an unusual problem! However, we were keen to get to the Himalayas as soon as possible so it was mutually beneficial. The weather in the area is such that the afternoon often becomes cloudy and then the planes cannot land so they try to leave…

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