Welcome back to India!

The peace and quiet of Lumbini quickly evaporated as we appeared at the border to India. Firstly, we’d meandered our way through to a smaller border, following a curious raised road through paddies and marshland. We shared the road with scooters and bicycles and spied a funeral pyre by the river and men crouched on…

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Goodbye, Nepal, and the birthplace of Buddha

We stayed in Kathmandu long enough to visit Bodnath, collect passports complete with Pakistani visas and heal stubborn Khmubu coughs. Bodnath was amazing but as it turns out though, Nepal is the worst place to heal coughs- Kathmandu (Dustmandu) is at constant battle with dusty haze. People sell a range of attractive dust masks by…

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Simon, the solo trekker

Simon set off on his own, accompanied by a clingy and worried Alex for the first 6km until it got too hilly and it was a fine excuse to turn back and let him continue on his own. He also borrowed a down jacket from our new Australian friend who assured him he wouldn’t make…

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Altitude sickness and subzero

Dingboche was the point where we no longer saw greenery. Instead, the village was defined with low rocky walls and small fields where grass struggled to grow. Yaks wandered aimlessly from one patch of earth to another to eke out a meal whilst the snowy mountains bore down on us from every angle. The village clung to…

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The Heart of the Himalayas

Namche Bazaar marks the last town before the serious trekking begins, whether you’re going to Everest Base Camp or doing the 3 Passes. It is the last town which stays functional for 365 days a year, the villages north of here shut down out of season. From Namche, you have an excellent view of the…

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Hello, Himalayas!

Our flight left 30 minutes earlier than scheduled, which is an unusual problem! However, we were keen to get to the Himalayas as soon as possible so it was mutually beneficial. The weather in the area is such that the afternoon often becomes cloudy and then the planes cannot land so they try to leave…

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Kathmandu – a warm welcome and The Great Trek Preparation

Kathmandu, a dusty town in a valley, is split into 3 areas which were separately governed before: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. The town is rich in history, culture and art and the architecture which still stands post-earthquake is a beautiful example of Nepal’s woodworking culture. Complex brick based buildings are framed and finished with intricately…

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The two day ride to Kathmandu

We made it to the border in the afternoon, trying our best to avoid a night in Silliguri again. The Indian border guards showed us into a dark room, cooled with fans and with a chair each to sit on. A lady brought us chai and we chatted about our trip so far as they…

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Sikkim – Chaos free and beautiful

Permission must be granted before foreigners can enter Sikkim in NE India. A fascinating area- now part of India after being its own kingdom since the 17th Century. We walked over to the Sikkim tourist office in Silliguri to get a permit. The walk had been described by the hotel manager as “pleasant”. We walked…

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Welcome to India : Nagaland (or Chai, potholes and changeable weather)

Moreh is the only border crossing foreigners can use to enter India from Myanmar. It’s a sleepy little village crammed between a mountain range and a river. Once you’ve crossed the bridge, you enter through gates into India! It being Sunday, it was unmanned with relaxed police waving us through. We eventually reached the high…

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